Screen printing is a decoration method that pushes ink through a mesh screen onto fabric using a squeegee. A photosensitive emulsion blocks ink in the non-print areas. The open mesh allows ink through only where your design appears. Each color requires a separate screen. The ink is then cured in a conveyor dryer at 320 degrees Fahrenheit for plastisol, 300 to 320 degrees for water-based, or 230 to 260 degrees for discharge.
At Northwest Custom Apparel in Milton, Washington, we have screen printed over 125,000 garments since 1977. We run every order in-house on M&R automatic presses. Nothing gets outsourced. This guide explains exactly how screen printing works, which ink type fits your order, and when to choose screen printing over DTG or DTF.
By Erik Mickelson, Operations Manager at Northwest Custom Apparel. 29 years in custom apparel. Founder of the Apparel Graphic Academy. WSU graduate.
Key Characteristics of Screen Printing
- Mechanism: It is a stenciling process that forces ink through a permeable mesh screen.1
- Ink Type: It can accommodate a wide variety of ink types, including Plastisol (durable, thick) and Water-based (soft, eco-friendly).
- Primary Benefit: Known for producing highly vibrant, opaque, and durable prints that are long-lasting, especially on textiles after heat curing (e.g., at 320°F for Plastisol).
- Versatility: Suitable for a wide range of materials, including t-shirts, posters, glass, wood, and metal.
- Application Scale: Highly cost-effective for large-scale production and bulk orders, as the per-unit cost decreases significantly with volume.
- Color Use: Multi-color designs are possible, but each color requires the use of a separate screen that must be precisely aligned (registered).
How Screen Printing Works (Step by Step)
Every screen printing order follows the same production sequence. Understanding these steps helps you prepare better artwork and set realistic expectations for turnaround and cost.
1. Design Preparation and Color Separation
Your design is separated into individual color layers. Each layer becomes a separate film positive printed onto transparent acetate. Vector files (AI, EPS, PDF) separate cleanly. Raster files (PNG, JPG) require manual separation and carry a small artwork fee. We review every file for printability before quoting.
2. Screen Coating and Exposure
A mesh screen is coated with light-reactive emulsion. The film positive is placed over the screen. Bright light hardens the emulsion everywhere except where the design blocks it. The screen is rinsed with water. The unhardened emulsion washes away, leaving open mesh in the shape of your design. This is your stencil.
Emulsion types:
- Diazo: Economical but slow to develop. Common for basic jobs.
- SBQ-based: Quick-drying and detailed. Higher cost. Best for fine detail.
- Dual-cure: Balance between cost and detail. Our standard for most orders.
3. Screen Registration and Setup
Each color screen is loaded onto the press and aligned using registration marks. Misalignment as small as 1/32 of an inch produces visible gaps or overlaps between colors. Our M&R automatic presses hold registration within 1/64 of an inch across production runs of 5,000 pieces.
4. Ink Application and Printing
Ink is spread across the screen. A squeegee pushes the ink through the open mesh onto the garment below. For multi-color designs, each screen prints one color. The garment moves from station to station. A flash cure between colors partially sets the ink so the next color does not smudge the previous one.
5. Curing and Quality Control
The printed garment enters a conveyor dryer. Plastisol ink must reach 320 degrees Fahrenheit through the full ink deposit thickness, not just at the surface. Under-cured ink cracks and washes out. This is the most common cause of screen printing failure on bulk orders. It is a production error, not a design error.
Our production floor in Milton accounts for seasonal temperature variation. Cool ambient temperatures slow heat transfer in the dryer. We adjust belt speed and chamber temperature to maintain consistent full cure across all runs, winter and summer.
High-Impact Screen Printing for Your Brand
Long-lasting and cost-effective, screen printing delivers vibrant results for bulk orders. Perfect for uniforms, promotional shirts, and safety gear.
Discover Screen Printing SolutionsScreen Printing Ink Types
The ink determines how your print looks, feels, and lasts. We use three types at Northwest Custom Apparel, each with specific cure requirements and fabric compatibility.
Plastisol is the industry standard. It produces high opacity on dark garments and lasts 25 to 50-plus commercial wash cycles. It sits slightly above the fabric surface.
Water-based ink penetrates fabric fibers for a softer hand feel. It works best on light-colored fashion blanks and premium retail merchandise.
Discharge ink uses a chemical reaction to extract dye from 100% cotton and replace it with pigment. The result has zero hand feel and a vintage washed appearance. It works only on 100% cotton with reactive dyes.
For full technical specifications, cure temperatures, fabric compatibility matrices, and cost comparisons, see our complete guide to screen printing ink types.
Mesh Count: What Determines Print Precision
Mesh count is the number of threads per square inch in the printing screen. It determines ink deposit thickness, detail sharpness, and opacity. Selecting the wrong mesh count is one of the most common technical errors in screen printing.
| Mesh Count | Ink Deposit | Design Type | Best Application |
|---|---|---|---|
| 86-110 | Heavy | Bold text, simple 1-2 color | White underbase on dark shirts, block lettering, glitter/metallic |
| 156-160 | Standard | Multi-color spot, standard logos | Corporate t-shirts, team uniforms, event merchandise |
| 200-230 | Light | Fine detail, thin lines, small text | Fashion prints, retail garments, water-based ink runs |
| 305+ | Very light | Halftone dots, photorealistic | Simulated process prints, four-color CMYK, fine art |
A fine halftone design printed on 110 mesh produces bleeding and loss of dot definition. A bold white underbase printed on 230 mesh produces insufficient opacity and ink coverage. Both are mesh count errors, not design errors.
What this means for your order: Most Washington corporate and event t-shirt orders run at 156 to 160 mesh with plastisol ink. If your logo has fine detail, thin fonts, or gradients, we flag the mesh count requirement before production and confirm it suits your design before screens are burned.
Fabric Compatibility: Which Fabrics Screen Print Well
Dye migration is the most common technical problem in Washington screen printing orders involving synthetic fabrics. When polyester is exposed to heat above 300 degrees Fahrenheit in the conveyor dryer, the dyes turn to gas and migrate upward through the ink layer. A white print on a red polyester shirt turns pink. A yellow print on a royal blue performance shirt turns green. The color shift is permanent.
| Fabric | Recommended Ink | Special Consideration | Common Garment |
|---|---|---|---|
| 100% cotton | Plastisol, water-based, discharge | No restrictions | Gildan Heavy Cotton, Bella Canvas, Next Level |
| 50/50 cotton-poly | Low-bleed plastisol | Standard plastisol risks dye migration on polyester | Gildan DryBlend, Hanes ComfortBlend |
| 100% polyester | Low-bleed plastisol | High dye migration risk on athletic colors | Sport-Tek, A4, team jerseys |
| Moisture-wicking / Dri-Fit | Low-bleed plastisol or DTF | High poly content. DTF may be more reliable. | Nike Dri-FIT, Under Armour, Badger |
| 300-400 gsm fleece | Plastisol (110 mesh) | Lower mesh for heavier ink deposit on fleece pile | Gildan Heavy Blend, Independent Trading |
| Hi-Vis neon fabric | Plastisol, specialized placement | Must avoid retroreflective tape areas | Portwest, CornerStone |
| Canvas tote bag | Plastisol or water-based | 10-12 oz cotton canvas takes both inks cleanly | Otto, Liberty Bags, Gemline |
The solution to dye migration is low-bleed plastisol formulation. It cures at 275 to 280 degrees Fahrenheit, below the temperature at which polyester dyes volatilize, while still achieving full mechanical bond with the fabric. We use low-bleed plastisol automatically on all polyester and high-polyester-content orders. You do not need to ask.
Screen Printing vs DTG vs DTF: Which Method Fits Your Order
The correct decoration method depends on your garment type, design complexity, order quantity, and how the finished garment will be used.
| Factor | Screen Printing | DTG Printing | DTF Printing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Minimum order | 24 pieces | No minimum | 6 pieces |
| Best garments | T-shirts, hoodies, Hi-Vis, tote bags | Cotton-rich t-shirts, single pieces | Polyester, nylon, any fabric |
| Design complexity | Flat designs, defined colors | Full color, photography, gradients | Full color, any complexity |
| Durability | 25-50+ commercial washes | 20-40 washes | 20-40 washes |
| Cost at volume | Lowest per-unit at 100+ | Fixed per-piece, no volume discount | Fixed per-piece |
| Dark garments | White underbase required | White ink printed directly | No underbase needed |
| Reorder cost | Reduced if screens stored | No setup fee | No setup fee |
| Hi-Vis substrates | Required method | Not recommended | Not recommended |
Screen printing is the right choice when:
- Your order is 24 pieces or more
- Your design has 1 to 6 defined colors
- You need the lowest per-unit cost at volume
- The garment will face industrial washing
- You are printing on Hi-Vis safety apparel
Screen printing is not the right choice when:
- Your order is under 24 pieces (DTG is more cost-effective)
- Your design is a full-color photograph (DTG handles this better)
- Your garment is 100% polyester or synthetic blend (DTF is more reliable)
- You need a single piece or small batch for a proof (DTG has no minimum)
Knowing when another method fits your order better is something we will tell you upfront. We run all three methods in-house. There is no incentive to push you toward the wrong one.
Read our full DTG vs DTF vs screen printing comparison
Types of Screen Printing Techniques
Spot Color Printing
This technique is the most common in screen printing, producing solid areas of color. It’s ideal for designs that don’t require extensive shading or gradients.
Halftone and Grayscale
If you’re looking for more texture, halftone printing breaks a single color into a dot pattern, creating gradients and shading effects. Grayscale prints full-color images in shades of gray.
Duotone and CMYK
For more complex designs, duotone printing uses two colors to create depth, while CMYK blends cyan, magenta, yellow, and black to form almost any color.
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Materials and Substrates
Screen printing can be applied to almost any surface. Popular materials include:
- Fabrics: Cotton, polyester, blends.
- Paper: Posters, art prints.
- Wood: Signage, furniture, and décor.
- Glass: Custom glassware.
- Metal: Industrial labeling and parts.
Each material requires its own specific ink type and curing method, so knowing your material is crucial to achieving a successful print.
How Much Does Screen Printing Cost
Screen printing cost has two components: garment cost plus decoration cost. Decoration cost is calculated from the number of colors (screens) in your design and the quantity of pieces in the order.
Garment Cost: Based on blank brand, style, and current wholesale pricing. Quoted per piece at your required quantity.
Screen Setup: 40 dollars per color screen. One setup charge per design. Waived for first-time customers. If screens are retained from a previous order, reorder setup cost is reduced.
Underbase: Counts as one additional screen on dark garments. A 3-color design on white requires 3 screens. The same design on black requires 4 screens.
Bulk Pricing Tiers:
- 72-plus pieces: Bulk discount applies
- 144-plus pieces: Higher volume rate
- 250-plus pieces: Custom pricing
- 500-plus pieces: Contact us for quote
Minimum Order: 24 pieces per design. For orders below 24 pieces, DTG printing is available with no minimum.
Turnaround: Standard: 10 business days from approved art proof. Rush: Available for select orders. Contact us before committing to a hard deadline under 10 days.
We do not publish a standard price list because garment cost and screen count vary too significantly across order types. Most quote requests are returned within 1 business day.
Benefits and Limitations
Screen printing stands out for its durability, vibrant colors, and cost-efficiency in large orders. It’s a great option when you need consistent, high-quality prints in bulk.
On the downside, it requires a complex setup for multicolor prints, and small orders may not be cost-effective due to the time and materials required for preparation.
Learn more about the advantages and disadvantages of screen printing.
Applications of Screen Printing
Screen printing works on almost any flat surface. Here are the applications we produce most often at our Milton facility.
T-Shirts and Event Apparel
The most common screen printing application to produce custom t-shirts. It’s cost-effective for large orders, as the setup cost per color decreases with volume. Bulk orders of 24 to 5,000 pieces. Team uniforms, company events, 5K runs, family reunions. Plastisol on cotton for durability. Water-based on fashion blanks for soft hand feel.
Hoodies and Fleece
School teams, coaches, winter workwear. Fleece requires lower mesh counts (86 to 110) for heavier ink deposit. Most orders combine left-chest embroidery with full-back screen printing.
Hi-Vis Safety Apparel
ANSI Class 2 and Class 3 certified garments for construction, road crews, and utility workers. Screen printing is the required decoration method. Embroidery hooping voids certification on most styles.
Tote Bags and Promotional Items
Cotton canvas tote bags for tech events, school fundraisers, nonprofit campaigns, and trade shows. Full panel front printing up to 12 inches wide. Custom glass bottles or mugs can be screen printed with logos or designs, making them popular for promotional products. Beverage companies often use this method for branding, producing items like branded beer glasses in quantities of several thousand.
Posters and Signage
Outdoor signs on metal or plastic. UV-resistant inks for weather durability. Common for business signage and industrial labeling. In electronics, screen printing is used to print circuit boards or durable labels for devices. It’s chosen for its precision and the ability to print on surfaces like plastic or metal. For example, automotive companies may use screen-printed labels for dashboard indicators due to their resilience against wear.
Frequently Asked Questions About Screen Printing
There is no hard color maximum, but each color requires a separate screen and press pass. Cost increases per screen. At 7 or more distinct colors, four-color CMYK process printing often produces better results at lower setup cost than individual spot colors. Send us your artwork and we will recommend the most cost-effective approach.
Screen printing is ideal for high-volume orders with bold, long-lasting colors. It is more cost-effective for large batches. Digital printing (DTG) excels with smaller runs and highly detailed, full-color designs. While digital prints may not be as durable as screen prints, they are faster for small orders and more efficient for intricate images.
Read our full DTG vs screen printing comparison
Screen printing has environmental impact from chemicals and water used in emulsion and washing. However, eco-friendly inks and reusable screens minimize waste. We use water-based inks when the order allows. We reclaim and reuse screens to reduce material waste.
When properly cured, screen-printed ink bonds strongly to fabric and withstands many washes without fading. Plastisol ink can last for years with proper care. Wash inside out on cold. Use mild detergent. Tumble dry on low heat. Do not iron directly on the print.
A textile screen printing shop with new manual equipment runs between 25,000 and 50,000 dollars for a press, infrared dryer, exposure unit, and start-up supplies. A new automatic press costs 30,000 to 80,000 dollars. We operate M&R automatic presses at our Milton facility.
Yes, with low-bleed plastisol ink. Standard plastisol causes dye migration on polyester. The fabric dyes turn to gas above 300 degrees Fahrenheit and migrate through the ink layer, shifting colors. Low-bleed plastisol cures at 275 to 280 degrees, below the migration threshold. We use it automatically on all polyester orders.
Is Screen Printing Right for Your Order?
Screen printing remains the most cost-effective method for bulk orders of 24 pieces or more. It produces vibrant, durable prints that withstand industrial washing. It is the required decoration method for ANSI-compliant Hi-Vis safety apparel. And it offers the lowest per-unit cost at volume through setup cost amortization.
It is not the right choice for single pieces, full-color photographs, or 100% polyester garments. For those orders, DTG or DTF printing is more appropriate.
At Northwest Custom Apparel, we run all three methods in-house at our Milton, Washington facility. We will tell you which method fits your specific order before we quote. No incentive to push you toward the wrong one.
Get a Screen Printing Quote | Call 253-922-5793
About the Author
Erik Mickelson is the Operations Manager at Northwest Custom Apparel in Milton, Washington. He has worked in custom apparel production for 29 years and founded the Apparel Graphic Academy, a product evaluation framework for blank garments and decoration methods. He holds a degree from Washington State University.
